Raymond trained and worked as an actor before joining Thames Television
in the wardrobe department and working his way up to designer. Although
he is very versatile and can design costumes for any occasion (including
"a bunch of old prostitutes on "The Bill""),
he really shines when dealing with glamorous historical productions
or fantasy and pantomime costumes. "And rags - I'm very good
at rags" he points out.
Raymond has worked on many programmes, both for adult audiences
and children's shows. He has designed costumes for shows as diverse
as "Rainbow" (he did a lot for Rod, Jane and Freddy),
"Polterguests", "Mike and Angelo", and "Miss
World", but also for dramas such as "The Bill",
and sitcoms such as "Let There Be Love".
When working on the T-Bag series, he got on very well with Leon
Thau, the first director. He really liked everything that Raymond
did and consequently gave him lots of space to get on with his
work. Raymond likes to be given lots of rope, and he explained
that "If somebody is employed to carry out a certain task
(such as costume design), then they should be trusted to get on
with it." This made a lot of sense - you wouldn't employ
a builder to build your house and then build it yourself!
The look of the original show came largely from Raymond. The original
idea for the character of T-Bag was to be an old hag dressed in
a brown square of cloth, but Raymond thought that this would have
been incredibly boring. At first he thought of an archetypal witch,
but then he decided that he wanted her to be glamorous and imposing.
This is just my opinion, but I feel that this is probably where
the character as she appears on screen came from. The costume
was glamorous making the witch glamorous, imposing and vain. This
gave a much greater scope for comedy, and the writers could employ
the old mantra "pride goes before a fall" over and over
to get big laughs.
The children in the original series were supposed to be dressed
in jeans and t-shirts, etc. Raymond decided that this would be
very dull, and dressed them in fantasy costumes that fitted very
well with the other characters. This, I think was a very wise
decision because fashions change. We've all seen the "Red
Hand Gang" cavorting around in their 70's stripy skin-tight
dungarees and flairs and winced in agony. T-Bag, however, is timeless
purely by dint of the costumes.
Fantastic though the costumes were, they were not without their
teething troubles. Raymond remembers how he thought the original
T-Bag costume was lovely, a vision in shot taffeta, but it rustled
too much for the sound department. The Velvet dress that was made
for "T-Bag Bounces Back" that ran for two series, Raymond
thought all the gold was "tacky and over the top" looking
back at it. "I would have designed it differently now,"
he explains, "I never stand still - I think that I could
do T-Bag much better now than I did then".
The dress used in "Turn on to T-Bag" was made from heavy
silk chiffon in bright red. "It was lovely, but it bled a
lot on camera - I don't think that I would use bright reds again
for television". The only dress for Tallulah that Raymond
felt was absolutely spot on was the purple "Star Dress"
used for "T-Bag and the Revenge of the T-Set". "This
was really the glory of glories - the best costume that I made
for Elizabeth" he says.
Things changed when Georgina Hale took over the lead role. Raymond
only designed two costumes for her. "Nobody knew how the
show would last with a different actress in the lead, so we used
the same costume over and over again". Indeed, the popularity
of the show waned considerably over the next few years, until
it finally died out altogether.
The costumes were designed and made very rapidly by Raymond and
his assistant (notice no plural). Often, they were put together
at the last minute. The script would call for a certain costume,
so Raymond would dash off a design sketch, scoot off to Borovick's
in Soho in the West End of London for the fabric, and also to
Ells
and Farrier (or Creative Beadcraft) not far from Borovick's
and he and his single seamstress (Sylvia Juren) would make the
costumes ready for the rehearsal.
The phenomenal and frenzied speed at which the costumes were put
together to meet the tight schedule sometimes led to mistakes.
Raymond points to a photograph of Major Happy's costume and says
"The musical notes were stuck on the night before filming,
and my assistant stuck them on back to front. I had letters from
an angry music teacher telling me off for that!"
The key costumes came with a bit more warning, and so more time
could be spent in their design. For some parts of the costumes
(for instance T-Bag's tiaras and the intricate trims and girdles
for the main costumes), he would enlist the help of his prop maker
in Dorset (Roger Adhampstead).
I
commented that he must have commanded a huge budget to make all
of these elaborate and sumptuous costumes, but he quickly put
me straight, telling me that he had very little money to play
with, despite the huge ratings the show was getting.
So, what had happened to all of these fantastic costumes? Most
of them were kept in storage in the Thames wardrobe department,
but over the years, he re-cut and recycled some of them, and others
were used for other productions. "The most important thing,
though, is that the costumes were all captured on film when they
were at their best. That is what they were designed for. They
were never made to last in the real world."
The costumes may have been scattered throughout time and space
like so many silver spoons, but Raymond's impressive portfolio
of photographs and sketches remains, and he went against his better
judgement and sold them to me, along with Elizabeth Estensen's
"Merry Pippins" jacket - one of the few pieces that
he still had access to. He was astounded at the reverence with
which I treated the jacket, after giving it close inspection and
being too afraid to fold it up. "Just fold it up, it's just
a piece of fabric at the end of the day" he said as I slowly
fell to pieces as I held this piece of my, and thousands of other
T-Bag fans across the world's childhood in my hands. A piece of
fabric that had once been worn by the most powerful and evil witch
in the history of children's television, and a piece of fabric
that I was scared to death of damaging.
I felt bad about taking all of this away from Raymond, but as
he said, "Sometimes I wonder why I have been keeping all
of this stuff. Sometimes it has come pretty close to the bonfire."
I assured him that I would keep the sketches safe forever, and
I would never part with them. "Fine, but if I find that you
have made your fortune with them at Sotheby's in years to come,
I'll hunt you down and kill you." So it looks like I'm stuck
with them whether I like it or not. Good job that I like it then,
really!
Raymond has just finished working hard at designing and making
costumes for the Questors
production of Nicholas Nickleby.